When we told our friends that we would be spending ten days in Paris, we got more suggestions and recommendations than I could sort through. We made good use of those recommendations (see interactive map below) but at the end of the trip there were definitely some practical details that if we'd known prior to arrival might have made us slightly savvier travellers.
Icon Key available on the Full-sized Paris Map
For a look at Paris through my eyes check out my Flickr - Chinkerfly's Paris 2011
Not So Common Sense
- Almost everyone seems able to speak English. They seemed to enjoy watching you struggle and butcher their language though before letting on that they can speak English.
- French people don't snack... Most restaurants opened around 11am or 12pm and then closed again between the hours of 2pm to 7pm. If you're starving in the afternoon, that might be a good time to step into a bakery (boulangerie) for some fresh baked bread and pastries.
- And they like to take lots of time off... Lots of places were closed at least one or two days a week. Many boulangeries are not open on Sundays, many restaurants not open on Mondays. Be kind to your hungry self and check the hours of operation before going.
- Appetizer, Entree, Dessert = Entree, Plat, Dessert. Many places offer a set meal price where you choose one item for each of the three courses, and the expectation at most restaurants is for you to order either all three courses (portions are accordingly smaller than their monstrous American equivalents) or a combination of entree + plat or plat + dessert. Depending on where you go they might give you a dirty look for ordering just an entree for your meal. At least one restaurant we went to had it explicitly laid out on the menu that each person at the table had to order a plat.
- Public restrooms are few and far between. In some heavily trafficked areas there are functioning self-cleaning public restroom stalls. If you have your location and data services turned on, the Paris Way app mentioned in the next section will tell you where the nearest restrooms are!
Getting Connected
- Free Wi-Fi connection at all the McDonald's without needing a password/login. Since I didn't pay for international data this was great for quickly stopping and connecting to get reoriented (I just stood outside the entrances).
- Helpful iPhone Apps: MyCityWay - Paris (has pretty much everything you could need); and Paris - Offline Map (decent static map with a lot of detail)
- Yelp! alternative: It took some searching, but the most impressive (and useful) restaurant review site I came across for Paris restaurants was La Fourchette (English version: The Fork). It seemed to have a more intuitive user-interface and accurate pricing and menu information than CityVox, and many more reviews per restaurant than Yelp! or Qype.
Getting Around
- HopStop is able to calculate public transportation routes in Paris, Google Maps currently is not.
- Metro: Subways don't run 24/7. From About.com - "The metro runs Mon.-Thurs. and Sun. from 5:30 a.m. to 1:15 a.m., and Fri.-Sat. from 5:30 a.m. to 2:15 a.m. Arrive at the station approx. 30 minutes before closing, as last trains depart at different times depending on the station."
- Weekly unlimited metro cards (Navigo Pass) are valid for Monday-Sunday. Same week passes can be purchased up to Wednesday at midnight, so if you arrive Thursday and leave Sunday, it seems you're out of luck. Navigo cards could only be purchased from the staffed booths, not from the ticket machines. Alternatively, you can purchase a "carnet" or group of ten tickets at a discounted price from the machines. Depending on how much you travel that could get you through a whole weekend. Here's an extensive (albeit slightly dated - 2008) guide to Paris Metro.
- Bikeshare: The Velib bikeshare program was awesome, you could easily bike across huge swaths of Paris in less time than it took to get to from point A to point B by metro. With the Navigo pass taking bikes out was super convenient, just follow the directions on the ticketing machine. If you don't have a Navigo pass, it's still possible to take out the bikes, but you don't get to have as much control over which bike you take and some are understandably beat up. Ride for 30 minutes without any additional fees, and there was almost always a Velib station near every subway station, some heavy traffic areas like the Opera House had several closely spaced stations. There is a slight delay between when you drop off a bike and when you can check out the next one, about 5 minutes. If the station where you want to drop off or pick up a bike is full/empty there's always a map on the kiosk that will show you were the other Velib stations are nearby. Here's the English guide for the bikeshare program from the official website: Velib (English)
- Getting to the Airport when the train/metro isn't running! During the daylight hours it's cheapest and easiest to take the train/metro to and from the airports. Between the hours of 1am to 6am though... There were nightbuses, but we didn't want to chance it so we took a shuttle which was a bit cheaper than taking a metered taxi. There are a few options but this one may be the cheapest: Bluvan











